With only one full day to spare in Kuala Lumpur before escaping to the cool and verdant surroundings of the Cameron Highlands, Charles and I decided to spend our first two nights in a labyrinth of chaos where the disarray gets more interesting the deeper the night goes. KL’s China Town is home to a number of budget accommodations (especially the cheap and nasty kind) mainly targeting backpackers and those who don’t mind a windowless jail-sized room or sporadic disturbances from nocturnal creatures.
Since this would probably be our last backpacking trip together before succumbing to the wholesomeness of family travel (which we reckoned would somehow lift our standards when choosing hostels) we both agreed to scour the cheapest guest house in each place we visit or at least stick to the bottom end of the price scale. We more or less adhered to our self-imposed criteria during our 3-week Malaysian trip, staying in 3 types of places – “cheap and nasty”, “cheap and cool”, and “cheap and fantastic”.
Getting to China Town from LCC-T (Low Cost Carrier Terminal) Airport
After successfully getting past the immigration despite my passport problem, we immediately made our way to the Skybus waiting area near the domestic terminal. Tickets for the Skybus could be pre-booked with Air Asia but we bought ours at the airport kiosk for RM9 each. We made it to KL Sentral bus and train station after an hour and half and took the KL LRT (RM1) to Pasar Seni Station (just one station away) where China Town is located.
With Charles’ amazing map reading skills, we made it to the quite obscure Wheeler’s Guest House along Jalan Tun HS Lee without resorting to my impressive “asking skills”. China Town was the perfect location for us because it was a short walk away to Puduraya Central Bus Station where buses leave daily to Cameron Highlands and the East Coast – our next destinations after cancelling altogether our trip to Cambodia.
KL China Town at daytime
Wheeler’s Guest House: A Willie Wonka Experience
We walked to Wheeler’s Guest House from Pasar Seni Station and if not for this friendly chap who was handing out leaflets outside, we would have surely missed it. There was only a small sign high up and the entrance itself was obstructed by a mini store. We were led into a narrow corridor with walls littered with graffiti giving us an impression of a dodgy car park and an abandoned building and left us with little doubt on what to expect on the top.
We took an old rickety lift to the 3rd floor (which we never used again during the duration of our stay) where the receiving area was located. To our great surprised, our cheap and nasty impression of the guesthouse quickly shifted to cheap and strangely cool.
It was somewhat bizarre emerging on a floor of colourful walls adorned with Chinese lanterns and plants (both real and plastic crawling vines) trying to pose an outdoor-like atmosphere. Huge pebbles adorning the pots of plants on the hallway made their way on its limited space as well as a mini aquarium and a guinea pig cage. Floors are made of wooden slabs perched over pebbles at the reception area.
Amenities = one table, fan and trash bin 
It was only RM33 (about 10 USD) for a double room with shared bathroom and even cheaper for a dorm so we decided to stay here on our first night. Our room was windowless and very basic but with a free buffet meal waiting for us on the rooftop, our stay here was now bordering to cheap and fantastic deal. The hostel hosts a free weekly dinner for its guest every Friday and we were lucky enough to arrive at the right time. I thought the buffet was a fitting welcome for the stressful day that was.
Rooftop Buffet
It was around 7-ish when we joined the rest of its mostly Caucasian guests at the rooftop. It was still bright at this hour but the crowd in China Town was starting to thicken and we could also see the changing lights of Menara Tower while enjoying a cold beer.
It was airy and quite pleasant on the rooftop especially right after coming from our cell-like room. The food was good and we were quite satisfied with the choices. There was fried rice with mixed veggies, chicken in oyster sauce (a bit like adobo) chicken curry, sweet and sour veggies and another vegetarian dish.
Later that night, we checked out the shops and stalls of China Town. Petaling Street was now blanketed with stalls selling all manner of fake goods and a deluge of people looking for the best fakes and gastronomic delights. We managed to squeeze in some fresh fruit and nibbles along the way and decided to come back the next day to feast on its sumptuous street food. We capped the night with one drink at the popular Reggae Bar opposite our hostel before retiring to our cell room.
Trying out the locals’ favorite Mata Kucing (Cat’s Eye)
We stayed in Chinatown too, love the food stalls around. So much similarities with Manila but you can feel the uniqueness as well, just love the feeling of a new city. Looking forward to your next entries bout your Malaysian backpacking trip.
Yeah, it’s the food stalls that made us stay here for a total of 4 nights. I just love waking up to the smell of fresh dimsum and hot steaming noodles and trying out the different cuisine on offer especially the street food.
I’m also excited to share upcoming entries especially the hitchhiking part in Cameron Highlands and seeing wild elephants. I just hope I can find the time and inspiration to blog regularly
with food and lodging you’re adventurous as well as Charles! not sure I passed by that place when I was in KL with friends.we stayed with a Filipina friend at her condo and just took the Hop – On Hop – Off Bus for touring. no sweat but may be not as fun huh!
We also took the Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus on our last few days in KL but that was after exploring most of the areas on foot. We thought with limited time, it’s cheaper and more convenient to do the tour and it covers all the noteworthy places to visit in the city.
Ang cool ng rooftop buffet! But I’d feel claustrophobic dun sa windowless room.
There are nicer hostels around if you spare more moolah. We’re usually flat out by the time we get home with the amount of walking we do each day when travelling so it doesn’t bother us that much.
ang mga Chinatowns talaga kahit saang bansa attractions ng mga tourists. they are a standout kasi kaya gustong gusto ng mga turista –its like finding an oasis in the middle of the desert, mukhang malinis ang chinatown nila sa KL–parang Sg.hehehe
Right, oasis of foodies and budget shoppers and you get a mix of the local vibe and the backpacker scene in one place as well.
Dyan ata ako banda bumili ng milk tea hehe
Me too, I tried my first milk tea here, I think the kopitiam calls it Tarik Teh/Tea on their menu.
di ako nakalibot masyado sa KL, naalala ko kasi malls ang target ng kasama ko, so I give in pero sabi ko sa kanya we need to see the Petronas towers. Petronas lang talaga ang nakita ko haha at ang mala-Greenbelt 5 nilang Pavilion Mall.
Ganyan din ako nung first visit ko sa KL, Suria Mall lang, Petronas at Menara Tower ang napuntahan ko sa city. Tapos Batu Cave at Genting Highlands sa labas.
this will be noted. dun kami sa likod ng Time Square tumira last time. I’m excited na next year for an epic travel adventure! hehehe.
by the way, astig ng tipid skills nyo ah! didn’t realize na grabe din pala ang criteria for choosing a hostel nyo! cool na cool!
Sa hostel talaga tipid kasi di naman masyado importante, mas ginagastusan namin food at adventure
Parang na-excite din ako sa epic travel adventure mo, is this an RTW?
haha, di pa kaya ang RTW. baka mag Flip/Sole Sisters lang ako. hehe. pero it’s in the works pa..
thanks for sharing, will definitely consider this for my KL trip next year.
Good luck, sarap naman meron na agad line up next year, ako kapag wala pang baby next year hopefully matuloy na Mongolia
wow! nice place for the price!
Ang cool ng rooftop buffet, so backpacker
In fairness yung rooftop buffet at dirt cheap price ang saving grace ng hostel na to, sulit na rin kaya next day di na kami lumipat.
I have never really experienced a China Town, can you believe it? It looks like a great vibe! You gave us a very good idea Claire! We want to copy the table and chairs that you are showing in your one photo..for our hostel!
Cool, for some reason, I feel like I will be staying in your hostel one of these days on my way to Patagonia. It’s just a dream but I could picture meeting you vividly.
i do love local food as long as it’s not exotic. chinese street food taste good.
Yep cheap, tasty and dirty just the way we like it
(joke!)
sayang hindi nasaksihan ng chinatown ang impressive asking skills mo claire
Last resort lang lagi yan kapag naliligaw na, ayaw kasi ng nagtatanong nung isa
Ms. Claire ano po yung Mata Kucing? Para po ba siyang Sago’t Gulaman natin?..
Yep, it tastes a bit like it, this one is made of longan, another fruit that looks like passion fruit and lots of sweetener.
Aliw yung rooftop buffet! I have not checked out Chinatown. Sa dinami-dami ng connecting flights namin with Air Asia, lagi lang kami sa airport
We didn’t fully explore the city as well coz we know it’s gonna be the hub of many more connecting flights someday.
Cheap and nasty ! Ahhh! The memories ! LOL> Teh Tarik , love it !
I know what you mean hahaha!
Your adventures are so interesting – I love following your blog. Your photos add so much to each post.
Thank you Mari.
i like how you categorize your hostels – gusto ko ang “cheap and fantastic”. $10 with a free buffet dinner is almost like the cost of a lunch in the US or Europe! winner to!
Same here in Sydney, a typical meal costs around 10 bucks so we were so stoked about the deal we got :0
I just cant imagine the taste of cat’s eyes……:-).
just like gulaman at sago kuya